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Shoulder seams should sit at the edge of your shoulder, not droop. Sleeve cuffs end at the wrist bone (showing 1/4-1/2 inch when wearing a jacket). The body should taper but allow two fingers inside the waistband when buttoned. Most off-the-rack shirts fit poorly — tailoring a $50 shirt at $25 beats a $200 shirt that doesn't fit.

100% combed cotton (Uniqlo Supima Cotton, Buck Mason California Tee) lasts longest and feels best after 5-10 washes. Tri-blends (cotton/poly/rayon) drape better but pill faster. Avoid 100% polyester for daily wear — traps odors and feels plasticky. For workout shirts, performance polyester (Vuori, Ten Thousand) is purpose-built.

Most men: 7-10 quality t-shirts, 5-7 button-downs, 3-4 polos covers a year. Women: 10-15 versatile tops in your core color palette outperforms 50 trend pieces. Quality over quantity — five $50 well-fitting shirts beats fifteen $15 Target shirts that wear out in months. Donate anything you haven't worn in 12 months.

Hot water + tumble dry shrinks cotton 3-7%. Cold wash + air dry preserves original size. Pre-shrunk shirts (most modern cotton tees) still shrink a bit on first wash. Buy one size up if you plan to hot wash. Tri-blends and polyester resist shrinking but pill faster.

T-shirt: casual, weekends, layered under jackets. Henley (3-4 button placket, no collar): slightly dressier than tee, works under blazers. Polo: business casual, golf, summer office. Order of formality: tee < henley < polo < button-down. A well-fitting henley (Buck Mason, Asket) replaces 80% of your t-shirt wardrobe.

Wash after every wear (oils and sweat cause yellowing). Use whitening detergent (OxiClean White Revive, Tide Hygienic Clean). Avoid bleach — it weakens fibers and causes uneven yellowing long-term. Hang to dry in sunlight (natural UV whitens). Replace white shirts every 1-2 years — yellowing is mostly irreversible.